The word tweed today covers a multitude of fabrics and while all can be beautiful in their own way, many simply won’t cut it for country pursuits.

So, if you’re using a tweed for its original purpose, it’s important to know that you’ll not only look the part but it will do the job.

Here we take a look at the different styles, the importance of getting a good fit and why a visit to our showroom will be a game changer when it comes to pulling off a tweed.

THE STYLES

Thornproof tweed has a distinct characteristic and while normal tweeds are woven from single yarns, the Thornproof tweed is made from two-fold twisted yarns producing a durable and impenetrable cloth. The tight twisting of the yarn will resist snagging and should keep the bracken and bramble at bay.

The Estate Tweed is usually a pattern of thin lines that intersect to make a windowpane or herringbone design. It’s usually light in colour and when not used as the gamekeeper’s uniform, is ideal for a summer jacket. Often known as an Estate Tweed, due to the fact each Highland estate would typically commission its own distinctive version for its gamekeepers, the colours were always chosen to match the estate’s local landscape and vegetation in order to provide camouflage. We still commission these today and have close working relationships with the fabric mills.

Worsted Tweed, as the name suggests this tweed is usually much lighter in weight but has the look of traditional countrywear and is much easier to wear. The yarn is spun to keep more air trapped alongside the fibres. Woollen spun yarns are loftier, more elastic, and lighter in weight, making for a luxuriously soft feel without compromising the traditional look. Most likely to be found in the pub than a field but not an imposter.

THE COLOURS

The colours of a tweed should reflect the environment it is to be worn in. Here in Yorkshire we are blessed when it comes to the outdoors and the vibrant colours of the moors gives us huge scope for vibrant designs. The natural earth-tones and heathers on our doorstep ensure our designs can be bolder and brighter rather than just relying on browns and greens.

Adopting the colours around you into your tweed ensures you will not only blend into the countryside but also cut a dashing figure whenever you wear it.

THE FIT

A good tweed should always be fit for purpose. If you need billowing outside pockets or a discreet, oversized, inside pocket, choose them. Tailoring keeps you in control and we’ll ask all the right questions when designing an outfit for you. We love an action back and we’ll work with you to decide whether the action is centre back or one either side by the sleeves. This added vent of fabric will allow all the flexibility when you need it yet bounce back into place the rest of the time.

Here at Norton & Townsend we know how to complement jackets with the right pair of trousers and so whether it is a plus 2, 3 or 4, we know the tricks of the trade to perfect the right look for you and your body shape.

Add a little Gortex or Alcantara as you see fit or go for the full set with a field coat, gillet and cap all in the same fabric to truly shine.

By taking accurate measurements and using full figuration to create your individual pattern, our tailors will not only create a look that is bespoke to you but one that will add to your outfit’s longevity, ensuring your tweed of today will become a heritage piece of tomorrow.

114 Bolling Rd, Ben Rhydding, Ilkley LS29 8PN
10 Artillery Passage, Spitalfields, London E1 7LJ
T: 0345 066 2030
E: bespoke@nortonandtownsend.co.uk
W: nortonandtownsend.co.uk